Le 22 novembre 2015
3 longueurs, équipé, 6a +max
6a+/6a/5c
Demi-journée de grimpe sur la face sud de la Grande Candelle, assez bien abritée du mistral fort de ce jour. La voie de la cheminée Bouisson ne comporte que 3 longueurs sur une grosse centaine de mètres de hauteur, mais un triptyque variée en dalle, fissure et cheminée-dièdre, soutenu dans le niveau 5c/6a dans les 2 premières longueurs. La dalle initiale cotée 5c réservera d’ailleurs bien du chausson à retordre aux grimpeurs un peu juste dans ce niveau… L’équipement, quoique souvent obligatoire, s’avère correct, et les quelques friends que j’avais pris eu égard aux commentaires parfois faits sur cette voie sont sagement restés au baudrier ; il conviendra plutôt de garder quelques grandes sangles histoire de cravater un becquet au départ de L2 ou une lunule au premier tiers de L3.
Assez bien abrités du vent de nord-ouest jusqu’à la jonction avec l’arête de Marseille ; ensuite la sortie sur la crête plein mistral donnera une ambiance subitement hivernale à la journée, le froid et les doigts gourds limitant la pause panoramique au profit de la recherche du rappel de descente vers le col de la Candelle !
durant l'approche par le couloir du Candélon, entre vues sur la calanque des pierres tombées et piou-pious
dans L1, dalle fine en 6a++ au départ
dans la belle fissure de L2
dans la cheminée spéléo de L3
sortie ventée sur l'arête de Marseille
couleurs vespérales au retour sur le sentier des 13 contours
crépuscule derrière l'île Plane
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