Le 21 février 2016
5 longueurs, semi-équipé, 6b max
5c/5c/6b/6a+/6a
Journée d’escalade sur la falaise du Cancéou et ses 150 mètres de calcaire posés au-dessus de la grande bleue et du blanc du Bec de Sormiou juste en face. 5 ans après le parcours du levant en conditions moyennes (ciel nuageux et rafales de vent de sud), on grimpera en tee-shirt sous un soleil radieux tempéré par un léger mistral aux allures de climatiseur. La voie de la Mouiette, récemment rééquipée, a conservé un caractère un peu aventureux et il convient de compléter les scellements espacés, même dans le 6a, par un petit jeu de friends, particulièrement dans les 3 dernières longueurs, belles, soutenues et variées. Mentions spéciales pour L4 au-dessus de la grande vire médiane du Cancéou et sa cheminée large en aragonite rouge très délicate à son départ, et L6 et son dièdre parfait ! Une belle falaise décidément que le Cancéou, un petit bijou de l’escalade maritime dans les calanques avec un parfum d’aventure qui rappelle un peu l’Oule ou Castelvieil.
dans l'accès, devant le cap Morgiou puis le Bec de Sormiou
dans les rappels
dans L3, 35 mètres soutenus et à protéger partiellement...
dans le pas-bloc du départ de L4
dans L4
au départ de L5
le magnifique dièdre de L5
calcaire blanc et grès orangé
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