Le 19 juin 2016
Voie « Pepito », 3 longueurs, équipé, 6a+ max
5c/6a+/5c
Parcours de la nouvelle voie « Pepito » sur le secteur occidental de la falaise de l’Oule, quelques semaines après « Pepita » située quelques dizaines de mètres plus à l’est. Difficile effectivement de se lasser de ce secteur reculé des calanques aux falaises colorées et souvent déversantes, du calcaire tout en rondeurs et peu adhérent qui produit souvent une grimpe athlétique « à l’ancienne » en cheminées, fissures et dévers, où renfougnes et oppositions figurent au programme. Les 3 grandes longueurs de Pepito proposent une centaines de mètres d’escalade dans cette gestuelle, homogène dans le 5c/6a nonobstant un pas de 6a+ dans le dièdre à Dülfer de la seconde longueur, avec une belle ambiance gazeuse sur la fin, face aux cordées qui assurent le spectacle dans les bouffigues des croulants ou les toits des futurs croulants. Au final une jolie voie bien équipée, sans doute moins belle que sa voisine « Pepita » plus longue et gazeuse, mais dans un niveau plus accessible pour une reprise dans le 5c/6a…
couleurs calanques
au pied des rappels, dans le rocher typique de l'Oule
dans L2 et son pas de dièdre
vue de relais sommital de L2, vers la suite et le toit des futurs croulants
dans L3, une cordée vers Castelvieil et dans "pepito" !
vue du sommet de la voie vers une cordée dans les croulants
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