Le 6 juillet 2016
Voie "ANPE", 2 longueurs, équipé, 5c/6a
Soirée d'escalade sur la face est de l'aiguille de Sugiton, bien à l'abri du mistral de la journée, mais aussi du soleil qui commence à rendre les mains des grimpeurs bien moites. La voie "ANPE" ne laisse pas la gomme des chaussons inactive sur sa première moitié en dalle fine, avec notamment un pas bloc au départ de L2 qui mérite bien son 6a. La suite présente une très belle fissure à Dülfer -soutenue et sans doute obligatoire- puis un dièdre plus facile avant de déboucher sur l'arête sommitale plein vent et plein soleil. Le retour par l'arête facile mais parfois fine et le rappel de descente donnent une (petite) ambiance montagne à cette jolie voie un peu courte et au rocher parfois usé ; le plaisir est par contre à chaque fois neuf pour la beauté du cadre face à l'enfilade des calanques orientales !
dans L2 et sa fissure à Dülfer
traversée des arêtes dans le sens sud-nord
ambiances et lumières au crépuscule
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