Le 26 avril 2018
Vieille canaille, 6 longueurs, équipé, 6b max
A mon sens 5c+/6a/6b/6b/6a+/6b
Après plus d’un mois d’infidélité(s), retour sur les falaises soubeyrannes, dans une nouvelle voie voisine de « Ciao Bella » déjà parcourue plusieurs fois pour sa beauté et sa rapidité d’accès en un seul rappel en contrebas du parking. La voie « vieille canaille » remonte les murs et dévers de grès juste au nord de « Ciao Bella » en 6 longueurs dont aucune n’est à oublier. Du rocher (déjà) bon et beau de bas en haut, un équipement de qualité et de la grimpe finalement assez variée entre dalle, dièdre, dévers et mur raide concourent à en faire une très belle voie, parmi les plus belles du secteur. Mention spéciale pour la magnifique L3 en dalle de grès compacte sur une trentaine de mètres, L4 en toits (trop) athlétiques mais prisus et L6 à nouveau en dévers ludique puis traversée fine au-dessus d’un magnifique relais perché dans une grotte. Une voie qui devrait donc rapidement figurer dans les classiques de Canaille, pour une obligation qui ne dépasse sans doute pas le 6a+ (en L3 et L6).
dans L1
dans L2
la vire avant L3
dans le magnifique mur compact de L3
à la sortie du toit de L4
dans L5
vues du relais à la base de L6
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