Le 4 juillet 2018
Voie "l'occidentale" au rocher des Goudes
4 longueurs, équipé, 6b+ max
A mon sens 6a (1 pas, sinon 5c)/5c/5c+/6b+ (1 court passage, sinon 6a/6a+)
Soirée d’escalade sur la face nord du rocher des Goudes et la voie « l’occidentale » déjà parcourue en 2014, une valeur sûre de la grimpe estivale, à l’ombre dans le beau cadre du cirque des Goudes. La petite centaine de mètres de la face nord se remonte en 4 longueurs qui louvoient entre surplombs, cheminées presque fermées, vires et dalles suspendues, et on profite d’une belle escalade du début à la fin, variée et relativement soutenue et homogène dans le niveau 5c/6a à l’exception de quelques mètres en 6b+ au début de L4. Toutes les longueurs offrent de beaux passages : dièdre d’aragonite en L1, chaussons et doigts sur les cristaux, cheminée-puits en L2, traversée gazeuse sur vire suspendue en L3, et dalle suspendue en L4 après le pas bloc en 6b+ sur rocher gras et. Bref, une belle voie, pas plus difficile que sa voisine de « la voie Barrin » mis à part les quelques mètres de L4 qui peuvent se faire en A0 (avec pédale), et donc une alternative intéressante voire plus intéressante que cette autre classique méritée.
le rocher Saint-Michel et à sa gauche le toit gravi la semaine précédente dans les "murmures du silence"
dans la niche de L2
le pas de traversée de L3
belle ambiance pour la star des lieux : les lames entre soleil et entrées maritimes
sortie de la voie
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