Le 14 août 2018
Voie l’AJ, 4 longueurs, équipé, 6b max
5c/5c+/5b/6b
Petite grande voie de fin d’après-midi sur la face est de l’aiguille de Sugiton, à l’ombre au-dessus des eaux turquoise de la calanque éponyme. La voie « l’AJ » remonte un système de fissures en 5b/c jusqu’à contourner par la gauche le toit sommital dans un court pas de 6b, et offre 2 belles longueurs initiales en dalle, fissure et traversée sur un rocher encore neuf. La descente se fait par une arête en facile en désescalade puis un seul rappel de 50 mètres (et pas un de moins !) dans la voie de l’ANPE. Une voie à recommander donc pour une initiation à un grimpeur de 5sup, on y trouve en une petite poignée d’heures un véritable condensé d’escalade dans le cadre magnifique de Sugiton !
de belles vues sur les calanques...
... et de la belle escalade dans L1 et L2...
... avant la section d'arête qui mène au rappel
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