Le 30 août 2018
Voie le dièdre noir, 3 longueurs, équipé, 6b+ max
6a+/6b+/5c
Soirée d’escalade sur le rocher Saint-Michel au-dessus des Goudes, une face nord-ouest beaucoup parcourue ces dernières années de par sa belle escalade en dalles raides et son beau cadre dans le cirque de falaises s’ouvrant sur la mer, mais aux cotations souvent sévères, ce que l’on vérifiera encore cette fois-ci. La première longueur en fissures puis traversée s’avère bien soutenue en 6a+ sur un rocher de plus parfois fragile, et la seconde longueur ne vola pas non plus sa cotation 6b+, avec des pas bien fins sur calcaire croustillant, sans compter un relais sommital (bien prendre le second sur chaîne, et non pas le premier sur scellement et goujon antique…) sur points rouillés qui n’inspire pas la confiance. La troisième et dernière longueur malgré sa cotation 5c n’offrira pas le repos escompté, dans une ambiance crépusculaire et avec un leader qui ne clippera qu’un scellement sur 2 faute de visibilité, autant dire que l’arrivée au sommet sera vécue avec un certain soulagement ! De beaux passages de grimpe au final, mais sur un équipement et un rocher qui mériteraient respectivement un coup de jeune et plus de fréquentation !
dans L1
dans L2
crépuscule sur les Goudes
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