Le 27 janvier 2019
Voie « Tora Bora», 3 longueurs, équipé, 6b+ max
6b/6b (1 pas bloc)/6b+, puis
Voie « la vie au grand air », 4 longueurs, équipé, 6c max
A mon sens 5c/6b+/6c/6a
Au menu du jour deux grandes voies, petites mais costaudes, avec un crescendo de difficultés jusqu'à un niveau bien ambitieux pour un grimpeur des dimanches... sans poudreuse !
Tora Bora offre 2 belles longueurs, la première pour ses 40 mètres de 6b soutenu avec un registre presque complet de styles : dalle, fissure à Dülfer, dièdre, petit dévers... de quoi s'échauffer pour la splendide troisième longueur, sur un rocher qui confine à l'exceptionnel dans le mur blanc et lisse final, suspendu sur son éperon au-dessus des bandes de Forbes du glacier de Marseilleveyre devant le Riou.
Après une descente en 2 rappels on s’oriente vers « la vie au grand air », qui vaut surtout pour sa troisième longueur sur un gendarme de calcaire plein gaz, de la grimpe aussi fine qu'athlétique... "au grand air", et même plein vent pour la suite ! C’est sans doute la plus belle des 3 voies déjà parcourues dans le secteur nouvellement équipé du cirque de la Galinette, même si très imparfaitement protégée du mistral…
au départ, lumières et trains d'ondes devant le Riou
dans L1 de "Tora Bora", variée et soutenue
après le pas de bloc de L2
sur l'éperon de L3, à la grimpe aussi belle que le rocher
descente en 2 rappels dans la voie
la voie suivante : "la vie au grand air"
dans L1
sur le bitard de L3
vue depuis le relais sommital de L4
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