Le 6 juin 2019
Voie « sweet amanite phalloïde », 3 longueurs, équipé, 6c max
A mon sens 6c/5b/6b
Retour à l’escalade après 3 semaines d’arrêt, toujours dans ce cirque des Goudes parfaitement adapté aux soirées d’été, sur les lames, une fine arête de calcaire qui court du pas de la demi-lune à l’extrémité est du Rocher des Goudes. Après avoir traversée le fil des lames 4 ans plus tôt, on va grimper leur face nord, dans une ligne de 3 longueurs baptisée « sweet amanite phalloïde », et finalement bien plus digeste que le nom et les cotations ne pourraient le laisser penser ! C’est une voie courte mais très belle, tant pour son escalade que pour son cadre sur le rasoir de calcaire face aux îles, variée en dalle, petits dévers, traversée et dièdre, et au niveau obligatoire proche du 6a/6a+. La première longueur offre une quarantaine de mètres soutenue en 6a/6a+, avec quelques pas plus difficiles bien protégés, sur du calcaire blanc sculpté en goutte d’eau, avant une seconde longueur plein gaz pas si facile en traversée, puis une dernière longueur qui commence par un magnifique dièdre fissuré attenant à une dalle, bref 3 longueurs toutes différentes et intéressantes.
échauffement dans un 6a à gauche de la voie
dans L1
la belle traversée de L2, pas si facile
dans L3
descente aux derniers rayons
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