Le 11 août 2019
Voie "tueur de boucs", 10 longueurs, équipé, 6b max
5c/6a/5c/5c/5c/6a/6b/6a/5b/4b
Après le calcaire gris des tenailles, retour dans une grande voie sur le granite noir d’Ailefroide, dans le secteur ombragé de Clapouse. On ne débouche pas sur un sommet, les approches restent trop courtes à mon goût, la proximité du camping génère d’ailleurs une certaine affluence, bref l’ambiance montagne et la solitude ne sont pas garanties, mais on profite tout de même de jolies vues et surtout d’une belle escalade bien équipée plus en placements et adhérence qu’en forçages d’avant-bras sur prises abrasives, de quoi passer du 6b sans violenter les fibres musculaires et la pulpe des doigts et des orteils.
La voie « tueur de boucs » ne déroge pas à cette règle avec une escalade presqu’exclusivement en dalles, à l’exception de L6 et surtout L7 en magnifique fissure fine à placements. Il est préférable par contre d’avoir un peu de marge dans le niveau 5c dalle (ou de la confiance dans la gomme de ses chaussons) vu l’équipement un peu aéré des dalles du bas, tous les pas dépassant le 6a étant par contre bien protégés comme souvent à Ailefroide !
dans L1
le Petit Pelvoux dans les cumulus
dans L4 et ses dalles de gneiss (comme presque partout ailleurs dans la voie...)
sortie de L5
dans la très belle fissure en 6b de L7
vues vers le vallon du Sélé et un autre grimpeur soloiste lourdement chargé
sortie de L9 devant la pointe du Sélé
myrtilles sur le chemin de descente
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