Le 1er novembre 2019
"sur les traces de Gaston", 9 longueurs, équipé, 6a+ max
5b/5c/5c/5c/5c/5c+/6a+/5c+/5c
Retour sur cette voie justement classique qui dessine une hélice sur les flancs de l’aiguille-presqu’île de l’Eissadon, et offre une grimpe homogène dans le 5c moyennant des pas courts de 6a dans L6 et L7 et 1 pas de 6a+ à la fin de L7. C’est une très belle escalade sur un très beau caillou et dans un très beau cadre, parmi les plus belles dans ce niveau de difficultés, qui plus est très bien équipée. A noter les jolies L3 et L4 sur un calcaire blanc quelques mètres au-dessus de l’eau, et L6 ainsi que L7 splendides en traversée sur un calcaire sculpté en bouffigues puis en mur raide et prisu pile au-dessus du chenal qui traverse l’aiguille.
Malgré l’approche rendue plus longue par la fermeture de la route du col de la Gardiole, cette voie attire encore de nombreuses cordées, preuve encore aujourd’hui avec 4 cordées au départ à 10h. Le VTT permet de raccourcir et rendre plus ludique l’approche, avec au final seulement 1 h du parking sur la D559 au pied de l’aiguille.
la traversée du chenal dans L1
sur le calcaire blanc de L3
au fil de l'eau dans L4
L5 et la fenêtre de son relais sommital
la traversée de L6
la superbe L7...
... et la non moins superbe L8
L9
du sommet, vues vers la cordée suivante et une cordée en face sur les dalles
plaisirs du nez et des papilles durant le retour en VTT
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