Le 23 mai 2020
Voie « parle à monkey », 5 longueurs, équipé, 6a+ max
A mon sens 6a+/6a/6a+/5c+/5b
Découverte d’une voie nouvellement équipée sur la Tête de singe, une échine rocheuse dominant le pont du Tusset - juste en amont du couloir Samson des gorges du Verdon - fort poétiquement baptisée « parle à monkey ».
C’est une jolie balade qui vaut surtout par ces troisièmes et quatrième longueur (couplables) dans une superbe fissure oblique raide qui raye la face et se remonte en Dülfer et inversées. Ailleurs l’escalade s’avère plus anecdotique, terreuse et très délicate dans L1 notamment, mais donne accès à la jolie «arête» (généralement peu marquée) sud qui se parcourt corde tendue sur des ressauts en III, IV… avant le bouclier sommital et son pas de 6b qui peut s’escamoter sur prises métalliques. L’itinéraire ne se termine vraiment qu’au retour sur la route à l’ouest du tunnel de la D952 après une descente sanglier entre buis et petites barres à désescalader. Au final une petite grande voie pas si petite avec le long parcours de l’arête sommitale, de quoi malgré tout reprendre l’escalade Verdon en douceur avant la grande voie plus longue et soutenue du lendemain.
l'itinéraire vu du pont du Tusset
la même avec plus de recul
fin de L1
la fissure de L2
au départ de L3 et de sa magnifique fissure large
sortie de L4 au-dessus du pont du Tusset
sur l'arête sommitale du singe
dans le dernier ressaut sous le sommet
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