Le 29 novembre 2020
Voie "walking on the moune", sortie par la voie de l'écaille, 5 longueurs, équipé, 6b max
A mon sens 6a+ (1 pas)/6a (très soutenu)/6b/6a+(soutenu)/5c
Retour sur la face sud-est de la Tête de la Mounine, avec un accès cette fois depuis le boulevard de Marseilleveyre, le col des Chèvres puis 3 rappels au sud de la face – les 2 derniers étant assez malcommodes à travers garrigue et pins. C’est une face d’environ 130 mètres de hauteur, raide et compacte malgré une grande vire médiane, et qu’une grande écaille décollée d’une dizaine de mètres de haut caractérise. Comme dans « le fadal » parcourue en 2017, la grimpe est souvent dalleuse et obligatoire voire engagée, particulièrement lorsqu’on bascule dans la sixième longueur de « la voie de l’écaille », une longue traversée en 6a/6a+ continue et gazeuse à l’équipement assez aéré !
Quoi qu’il en soit, « walking on the moune » offre de la belle escalade en dalle, traversée soutenue et homogène dans le 6a du début à la fin de L2, fissure à Dülfer, dalle et… écaille au menu plus varié de L3, avec au final 4 grandes longueurs soutenues dans le 6a ou un peu plus. Une voie à recommander donc pour les fans de dalle et fadas qui accepteront contre toute logique de tirer et pousser sur l’écaille décollée de L3 !
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sur la dalle de L1, devant la pointe Callot
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sur la dalle de L2
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sur... la dalle et le dièdre de L3
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L5 (L7 de la voie de l'écaille)
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vue sur l'écaille décollée empruntée en L3
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