Le 28 février 2021
Roxane, 2 longueurs, équipé, à mon sens 5c/5c+
sur la vague en rêvant, 2 longueurs, équipé, à mon sens 5b/5b+
le principe de plaisir, 2 longueurs, équipé, à mon sens 5a/5b
Découverte du secteur « Congloué » sur le versant sud-ouest de Sormiou, juste au nord du col de Lui d’Aï. On y trouve de grandes couennes ou de mini grandes voies de 2 longueurs, accessibles par un rappel de 45 mètres depuis la crête sommitale jusqu’aux cordes fixes de la petite vire du bas, et bien protégées du vent de sud-est du jour.
C’est un peu l’image d’Epinal de la grimpe dans les calanques, au-dessus de la mer et face à l’archipel du Riou, sur un superbe calcaire très blanc et très sculpté, pas du tout usé.
Le tout est bien équipé sur scellements et dans des cotations évoluant exclusivement dans le V, de quoi figurer parmi les plus belles voies du massif dans le type dalle à gouttes d’eau et réglettes !
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ophrys
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une cordée juste au sud du secteur
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L1 de "Roxane"
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L1 de "sur la vague en rêvant"
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cordée dans "la panthère rose"
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L1 puis L2 de "le principe de plaisir"
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