Le 15 juin 2021
Voie « le magicien d’Oz », 10 longueurs, équipé, 6b max
Cotations topo 5c/5c/5b/6a/5c/6a/6b/6a+/6a/6a
Ressenti 5c+/5c/5b/6a/5c/6a+ (soutenu)/6a+(soutenu)/6a/6a/6a+
Dernière voie d’escalade de ce séjour vallorcin, et pas la moindre, la voie dite Piola sur les dalles de Barberine. C’est une escalade absolument superbe de la première à la dernière de ses 10 longueurs, de la grimpe fine et variée, toute en placements sur ce beau granite sombre, souvent dalleux mais pas que. Tous les styles y passent, dalle à friction, fissure à doigts ou à Dülfer, dièdre, traversée, et quelques passages athlétiques, le tout avec des relais confortables sur des vires. Evidemment l’ambiance n’est donc pas celle du Verdon, les vires coupant la verticalité et le gaz, mais on grimpe tout de même près de 300 mètres de granite en 10 grandes longueurs bien individualisées. L’équipement reste excellent du bas en haut sur scellements, relais chaînés, points bien placés en général au niveau ou juste en-dessous des pas, laissant donc l’escalade obligatoire pour notre plus grand plaisir…
Comme quelques jours plus tôt sur la voie Cambon à Cognet, de la belle escalade plaisir sans tension nerveuse, merci aux équipeurs pour leur travail d’orfèvres du rocher !
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L1 en... dalle
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plus haut, un festival de belle grimpe à belle gestuelle
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couleurs au retour dans les prés
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