Le 1er septembre 2021
Voie "tafanari", 4 longueurs, équipé, 6a+ max
6a+/5c+/5c+/5c
Séance de grimpe vespérale dans le vallon des Aiguilles, pour une voie principalement en dalle, "Tafanari", déjà parcourue (difficilement) en 2012 et décidément bien soutenue dans le niveau 5c/6a. Après une pause « mûres » et une approche refaite en courant pour cause d’oubli de chaussons, la première longueur commencera fort par quelques mètres de dalle patinée en 6a avant un mur raide et athlétique. La suite ne s’avèrera guère plus facile, avec notamment une belle seconde longueur en dalle puis Dülfer. La dernière longueur permettra enfin de reposer les pieds au détriment des avant-bras dans une fissure athlétique, mais à mon sens moins dure que ce qui la précède. Le rappel du relais sommital dépose sur un beau relais chaîné (presqu’) en bout de cordes de 50 mètres, avant le second et dernier rappel de 30 mètres, pour une descente en phase avec le crépuscule, descente qu’il est difficile de faire plus efficace !
Une belle voie en dalle au final, mais bien soutenue et obligatoire dans le 5c, un « tafanari » - fessier - de calcaire un peu trop lisse pour être facile !
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mûres dans la (courte) approche pédestre
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fin de L2 en dalle
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fin de L4 en fissure
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