Le 30 avril 2022
Voie "la loi du chaos" dans le secteur Draïoun au Cap Canaille, 7 longueurs, équipé, 7a max
A mon sens 6a (1 pas)/5b/6a+/6c (sur 3 mètres)/7a (sur 5 mètres)/6b/6c+(1pas)
Session révision de classiques sur la falaise du Draïoun et la première des grandes voies ouvertes dans ce secteur exceptionnel pour la beauté et la variété de son rocher (du bas en haut des 200 m de hauteur calcaire, grès et poudingue).
La loi du chaos offre 7 longueurs d’escalade sur cette trilogie géologique et une relative homogénéité dans le 6a/b hormis pour les quelques mètres difficiles dans la fissure à coincement de L4, le conglomérat lisse du milieu de L5 et le toit final de L7, autant de passages qui peuvent se franchir plus ou moins aisément à l’aide des scellements pour un grimpeur pas au niveau. C’est donc de l’escalade plaisir et panoramique au-dessus de la baie de Cassis et face aux calanques, sur un équipement sécurisant, de la grimpe souvent ludique dans L1 et L3, esthétique dans la fissure à Dülfer puis coincement de L4, fine et typée dalle comme toujours sur le poudingue de L6, une magnifique longueur plein gaz tout en placements et à pieds sur petits galets enchassés.
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à l'approche, chèvrefeuille et fantaisies de calcaire des lieux face aux calanques
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le chaos géologique à gravir, la ligne louvoie vers le milieu de la photo et passe par les trois strates rocheuses
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dans le chaos de calcaire de L1
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L2
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les petits dévers de L3
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sortie de la fissure de grès de L4
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dans L5, à la transition grès-poudingue
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vues des relais
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le champ de (petites) patates de poudingue de L6, magnifique et soutenue en 6a+/(petit)6b
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à l'approche du dévers final de L7
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