Le 6 juin 2022
Voie "l'éperon nord-est" au Bec de Sormiou, 5 longueurs, équipé, 6b max
A mon sens 4b/5b/5c/6b/5c+(L4 et L5 enchaînés pour nous)
Retour sur la falaise nord-est du Bec de Sormiou, parfaitement indiquée en saison estivale avec son ombre dès la fin de matinée, de quoi grimper pile au-dessus des eaux azuréennes des calanques sans transpirer (enfin tant que l’équipement versus la difficulté ne génèrent pas de tension nerveuse…).
La voie de l’éperon nord-est, déjà parcourue en second et… en baskets (oubli de chaussons) en 2012, est moins fréquentée et donc patinée que ses voisines plus classiques, et offre de beaux passages d’escalade, particulièrement aux départs de L2 (mur raide à bacs), L3 (traversée sous toit et sur inversées) et L4 (dalle technique et athlétique), cette dernière étant un cran au-dessus en termes d’exigence, plus proche de 6b que du 6a.
La fin de la voie demande de garder un peu de jus dans les bras et dans la tête, car passé cette dizaine de mètres en 6 la dernière longueur en 5c a un équipement singulièrement espacé et une cotation un peu sévère - comme tout le reste de la voie !
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la longueur d'accès au Capélan
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L2
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L3
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sortie de L3
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lé départ de L4
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L5
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retour sur la crête de Sormiou
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