Le 12 juin 2022
Voie "l'aile du sphinx" face sud-ouest du Rocher Saint-Barthélémy, 5 longueurs, équipé, 6b max
5b/5a/5a/6a (1 pas)/6b (1 pas)
Partis pour une voie facile récemment équipée du Rocher Saint-Barthélémy - "le croupion du grifffon" - on sera attirés par une ligne de spits neufs qui s’avèrera au final ne pas être la bonne, fourvoyage dès la première plaquette ! Difficile de s’orienter correctement sans topo papier dans une large face criblée de spits récents, mais on n’aura au final pas perdu au change, puisque la voie parcourue comporte plusieurs belles longueurs, notamment les départs de L2 sur mur raide à tafonis de rhyolite et de L4 en dalle fine puis fissure à Dulfer, un itinéraire globalement bien équipé avec juste un pas de 6a bien tassé obligatoire dans L4. L’orientation sud-ouest à ouest garantit une escalade à l’ombre jusqu’en fin de matinée, et avec les thermiques du jour plus haut au soleil, on aura pu grimper sans transpirer sur l’intégralité des 5 longueurs !
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au départ, les couleurs de la calanque Saint-Barthélémy
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soirée paillettes dans les fleurs de figuier de Barbarie
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L1
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le beau départ de L2
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L4, 1 gros pas de 6a obligatoire 1m au-dessus du point, on est pas dans la voie prévue en 5a max...
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sortie de L5
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au retour, face à l'échine du dragon parcourue fin 2018
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