Le 13 mai 2023
Voie "la directe de nulle part", 4 longueurs, équipé, 6b max
6a/5b/marche/5b/6b (soutenu et athlétique)
Une nouvelle voie dans le secteur classique d’«ouvreur de bouse », proche de la voie « au milieu de nulle part », rééquipée récemment. Une variante que j’ai trouvée plus grimpante et intéressante avec de belles longueurs additionnelles, spécialement la seconde en cheminée tridimensionnelle déversante mais facile, un beau voyage sur - et dans - le calcaire détritique mais esthétique des lieux entre quelques fours à cristaux, et évidemment la dernière en dévers athlétique, traversant et donc particulièrement gazeux. L’excellent équipement sur plaquettes, particulièrement resserré dans le 6b du haut, enlève malgré tout (une grande partie de) la tension qui pourrait grandir avec les fesses et bras (fourrés d’acide lactique…) pendu.e.s dans le surplomb cent mètres au-dessus du départ !
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les calanques au départ de la voie
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L1
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le rocher déliquescent et psychédélique des lieux, à R1
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la cheminée déversante en 5b (!) de L2
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la cheminée déversante en 5b (!) de L3
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le gros dévers (généralement) prisu de L4
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les calanques à l'arrivée...
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