Le 5 octobre 2024
Combinaison des voies "étron fou" (L1 et L2), "dark side of the moule" (L2 en moulinette depuis le relais sommital) et "dièdre Guem", 3 dernières longueurs, 6 longueurs, équipé, 6b max
A mon sens 5b+/5b/6a+/3c/3c/4b
Retour sur l’adret de Sormiou sur une voie encore jamais parcourue, plus jolie que son nom pourrait laisser le supposer : « l’étron fou » (on est proche de l’émissaire de la station d’épuration de Marseille à Cortiou). Ses deux premières longueurs offrent une belle escalade raide puis dalleuse sur calcaire blanc ciselé juste au-dessus de la Grande Bleue, et on très loin de la bouse même si l’air peut avoir des effluves d’égoûts aussi près de Cortiou… On prolongera cette session de grimpe sur gouttes d’eau au-dessus des eaux salées dans la belle seconde longueur en 6b (plutôt 6a+ à mon sens) de « dark side of the moule » (plutôt « sunny side of the moule » ce jour !), avant de bifurquer vers le facile mais toujours beau dièdre Guem et son pan incliné de calcaire sculpté dans le III. Une bonne cure de soleil (souvent absent ou venté le week-end depuis la mi-avril !) sur le calcaire blanc, avec qui plus est le spectacle de la bruyère (et du romarin) en fleurs.
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l'approche côté nord, les couleurs de Sormiou et la bruyère en fleurs
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l'approche côté sud
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L1 de "l'étron fou"
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L2 de "l'étron fou"
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dans le dièdre Guem
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dernière longueur du dièdre Guem
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bruyère en fleurs au retour
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