Le 15 décembre 2024
voie "la tentation de Newton", équipé, 6 longueurs, 7a+ max
5b/6c/6a+/6b+/6c+/7a+
Retour à Cap Canaille et au Draïoun, l’un des secteurs-phares de la falaise avec sa hauteur parmi les plus importantes des soubeyrannes, sa raideur (on sort parfois en dévers par rapport au point de départ 120 mètres plus bas) et sa stratification géologique encore plus visible qu’ailleurs, avec ce mille (enfin presque) feuilles blanc, ocre et marron et les couches interposées de calcaire, grès et poudingue. La voie « la tentation de Newton » rappelle bien ce défi à la gravité que constitue la grimpe dans le secteur, même si ici une grande vire médiane coupe un peu la verticalité dans L3. On y retrouve sinon la substantifique moelle de la grimpe au Draïoun, du gaz en partie haute, des toits de grès plus ou moins gros, de la grimpe à lecture et placements dans le poudingue, des cheminées presque fermées, des dièdres plus ouverts… et des bras fumants au bout de quelque longueurs. La spécificité de la voie du jour réside sans doute dans la très belle géologie de L4 et ses cristaux incrustés entre calcaire et grès, ainsi que dans les deux longueurs finales sur conglomérat particulièrement technique – avec des galets pour une fois peu proéminents dans l’axe d’une cascade sèche !
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L1 en cheminée spéléo
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L2
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L3
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L4, magnifique sur calcaire avec fours à cristaux puis poudingue
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L5, belle et pas trop dure sur poudingue dans une cascade sèche
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la sortie en 5
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