Le 20 novembre 2022
Voie « le pilier du feu sacré », 8 longueurs, équipé (de manière hétéroclite), 6a max
4c/5c/6a/4a/rappel/5c(soutenu au début et engagé à la fin)/4c/4c/5c (1 pas)/rappel
Retour sur cette belle voie historique tracée sur l’arête sud du contrefort du Pilon, découverte en 2016 mais qui vaut bien un nouveau parcours pour sa rhyolite rouge parfois sculptée en taffonis et son escalade variée et intéressante, notamment dans le dièdre de L2, la dalle de L3 et les niches de L5.
L’équipement présente également une variété inhabituelle, des goujons aux coins de bois encore en place en passant par pitons et cordelettes sur lunules… ou même fissures, les pas au-delà du 5c étant tous bien protégés, même si une longue section en 5b raide à la fin de L5 impose un certain engagement avec une dizaine de mètres vierge d’équipement et improtégeable.
Quoi qu’il en soit, c’est une belle course au caractère montagne marqué, et une classique méritée comme le montreront encore ce jour les nombreuses cordées qui s’y succèdent !
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L1
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L2
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L3, dans le crux
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L4
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le rappel face à L5 et ses taffonis
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sortie de L5
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L7 et son coin de bois
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L8
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descente face à l'échine du dragon
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