Le 28 juillet 2023Voie « le bal des favouilles », 10 longueurs, équipé, 6a+max
A mon sens 5b/6a+/3a/6a/4a/5c/6a+/4a/3a/marche/rappel/5b
Découverte de cette voie récente du secteur « Draïoun » du Cap Canaille, proche de la non-moins récente « stratégie du crabe » et d’ailleurs dans des cotations et styles peu différents : itinéraire louvoyant souvent en traversées à la recherche des lignes de faiblesses de la paroi, variété de rochers (calcaire, grès poudingue…) comme toujours au Draïoun, courts passages dans le 5c/6a (notamment dans les belles L4, L6 et L7, le départ de L2 étant le crux de la voie à mon sens) et plus inhabituellement une certaine ampleur (10 longueurs et un rappel). A noter que tous les relais se situent sur des vires confortables, de quoi plaisamment assurer son second et admirer la géologie baroque des lieux.
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L2
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la vire canaillesque et photogénique de L3, un sacrilège que de grimper à Canaille le matin à l'ombre !
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au départ puis à la fin de L4, relais dans une niche comme presque tous dans cette voie !
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la traversée facile et peu aérienne de L5
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la traversée moins facile et carrément aérienne de L6
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L6
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sur l'arête finale
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