Le 12 novembre 2017
le tour mort, 3 longueurs, 6b max
6b/6b/6a
UHT , 3 longueurs, 6a+ max
6a+/5b/5c+
« le tour mort », 3 longueurs, équipé, 6b max
6b/6b/6a
« UHT », 3 longueurs, équipé
6a+, 5c, 5c+
Journée d’escalade au départ des Goudes, sur 2 (petites) grandes voies à l’abri du mistral. On grimpera d’abord « le tour mort » sur la falaise du plan des cailles au-dessus de la calanque de Marseilleveyre (découverte en 2011 avec la jolie « directe de l’éperon de base » en 5c/6a), puis « UHT » quelques centaines de mètres au nord-est sur la falaise récemment équipée du cirque de la Galinette.
Le « tour mort » offre une escalade variée sur ses 3 longueurs, fissure athlétique, dalle et traversée, assez soutenue dans le 6b aux départs de L1 et L2. La seconde longueur s’avère d’ailleurs magnifique sur une dalle de calcaire blanc sculpté, le rocher des calanques dans ce qu’il a de plus beau ! La voie « UHT » reste plus anecdotique malgré une première et troisième longueur jolies en fissure et dièdre.
2 petites voies intéressantes donc, même si ces secteurs souffrent globalement d’un manque d’ampleur et d’ambiance dus à l’éloignement de la mer et à la présence de vires, on est évidemment loin des falaises-phares du Cancéou, Oule ou Castelvieil…
à l'approche, près du vallon de la Mounine
dans L1 du "tour mort", la cordée voisine dans la directe de l'éperon de base
sortie de la belle dalle en L2 du "tour mort"
dans L3 du "tour mort"
la falaise du cirque de la Galinette
dans L2 de "UHT"
dans la fissure en L3 de "UHT"
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