Le 7 novembre 2021
la cheminée du cirque, 6 longueurs, équipé, 6a+ max
à mon sens 5c/6a+ (soutenu et athlétique dans le tiers médian)/5c/6a/5c/5b
Approche depuis Luminy par les corniches Paretti, retour par le col de la Candelle
Retour dans cette belle voie canaillesque ou oulesque du Devenson, 8 ans après son premier parcours. Les oppositions et renfougnes des 3 longueurs en cheminée spéléo permettent de faire refroidir les avant-bras après une L2 bien physique ! Les cotations s’avèrent d’ailleurs un peu "historiques" dans cette voie : le 6a de L2 est un gros 6a qui plus est obligatoire, et on trouve des pas pas si triviaux dans L4 (plutôt 6a) et L5 (plutôt 5c au départ).
La météo contrastée ce jour offrira un splendide crépuscule : après le temps beau et chaud du matin, le retour d'est débordera vers les calanques à partir de 13 h, avec de grosses averses en mer mais seulement quelques gouttes à terre, mais un ciel dégagé loin à l’ouest pour le soleil qui tombe dans la mer. On n’a pas l'automne dans les calanques d’érables ou de mélèzes en feu, mais des cieux qui s'embrasent à la limite des retours d'est !
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les corniches Paretti au soleil
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L3, au début de la grimpe spéléo en écarts et renfougne
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concrétions et contorsions dans L4
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la mauvaise châtière et la bonne
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le crépuscule déchire le retour d'est... et déchire tout court !
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