Le 22 septembre 2024
Voie "via del Pierrot", 8 longueurs, équipé, 6a+ max
A mon sens 5b/6a/5c/4c/4c/6b+/5a/marche/5c+
Après la longue grande voie de la veille dans les gorges du Verdon, petite virée vers le sud-est pour découvrir l’une des grandes voies nouvellement équipées au-dessus du village de Séranon : la « via del Pierrot » qui remonte un éperon de calcaire gris presque jusqu’au sommet du versant sud. C’est une jolie escalade sur du calcaire gris qui peut évoquer le Destel, avec des sections esthétiques sur arêtes fines, mais un peu hétérogène vu le terrain coupé de vires et de nombreuses sections végétales. La ligne tire malgré tout le meilleur parti de cette falaise qui manque un peu d’élan, jusqu’à une dernière longueur absolument magnifique sur le fil du pilier sommital détaché, un éperon de calcaire gris rarement compact et creusé de petits trous.
Plutôt que les rappels et la via cordata, on descendra par le sentier versant nord (un peu de bartassage à prévoir pour le rejoindre depuis le sommet) qui mène aux ruines du village abandonné de Séranon, dont celles impressionnantes par leur taille de l’église gothique : la Provence des loisirs - avec ici escalade, via ferrata, via cordata… a bien remplacé la Provence agricole victime de l’exode rural…
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le tracé de la voie
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L1
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L2, bien délicate au départ pour du (prétendu) 5c
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L3
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L4 sur l'arête
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L6 très dure au départ
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L7
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L8, superbe tant pour le rocher que pour l'escalade
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à la descente par le GR 406, les ruines du Vieux Séranon et de son église gothique
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la chapelle Sainte-Brigitte un peu plus bas
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