Le 21 décembre 2024
Voies au "four solaire" sur la montagne Sainte-Victoire, équipé
"incendie de tes yeux verts", 5b+/5a
"la chiure", 5b
"à double tour", 5c
"Alice", 5b/5c
Découverte de ce beau site de couennes et/ou de mini grandes voies sur la montagne Sainte-Victoire, depuis longtemps identifié mais encore jamais grimpé. Comme son nom l’indique, on y trouve un amphithéâtre de falaises exposées au sud, donc globalement bien protégées du mistral, et équipées sur une soixantaine de mètres de hauteur. A l’instar du site voisin des deux aiguilles, on y pose ses chaussons (ou baskets pour certains !) sur un beau calcaire gris particulièrement compact, avec des cotations sévères (rajouter à peu près un niveau aux cotations annoncées, les 5c étant plutôt des 6a) et un équipement vieillissant (spits de 8 rouillés…) et espacé (laissant les pas obligatoires mais peu au-dessus du point), de la grimpe en dalle typique de la Sainte-Victoire où lecture et placements priment sur les avant-bras ! Qui plus est, la marche d’approche longue de guère plus d’une grosse demi-heure - mais raide - garantit une certaine tranquillité par rapport aux couennes classiques et d’accès rapide des deux aiguilles, la preuve ce jour aux conditions idéales avec pourtant seulement une autre cordée sur place.
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les voies du jour vues du parking
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"incendie de tes yeux verts", L1 puis L2
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rappel de descente
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"la chiure", L1
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"Alice", L1
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