Le 26 août 2025
Voie "le bitard à rudiste", 7 longueurs, équipé, 6a+ max
A mon sens 6a (1 pas)/5b/6a+ (1 pas)/6a/5b (et non pas 6a !)/5c/6a+ (1 pas)
Retour dans cette jolie voie voisine de la classique '"ouvreur de bouse" sur sa seconde partie, déjà parcourue peu après son ouverture en 2016, qui a depuis perdu en rudiste et gagné en patine ... Une seconde section raide et prisue succède à une première moitié discontinue louvoyant dans le rocher "détristhétique" de Canaille, avec des passages entre fossiles dans L2 et L3 et sur colonnettes dans L6, au final une très belle voie facile et suréquipée, de la pure escalade plaisir sur un rocher excellent où les bonnes prises sont marquées de magnésie et les fragiles de croix blanches : on se croit donc en salle pour cette première sortie vespérale en grande voie (après de nombreuses sorties couennes) de la saison 2025 !
Et puis toujours un plaisir que de faire découvrir la plus belle falaise de la Voie Lactée pour le moins (dans sa version exclusivement gréseuse), juste dommage pour le flux de sud du jour, qui a rendu l'air aussi poisseux que l'horizon occidental, pas de beau crépuscule donc ce soir ou de rocher rosissant sous les derniers rayons.
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dans les rappels
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L1
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L2
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L4, la plus fine de la voie
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L5, belle et facile en dièdre prisu
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L6, même topo que L5
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le pas athlétique de L7 (qui m'a coûté l'enchaînement !)
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