Le 30 octobre 2011
Découverte d'un secteur des calanques encore à l'écart des modes et des foules au-dessus de la calanque de Marseilleveyre.
Voie de la "directe de l'éperon de base", intégralement rééquipée en 2007, sur une belle falaise de rocher sculpté très adhérent voire abrasif, au point que les orteils et doigts commencent à souffrir au bout de 5 longueurs. Superbe escalade variée, commençant en fissure/dièdre dans les 3 premières longueurs pour évoluer vers de la dalle dans les 2 dernières, toujours soutenue dans le 5c/6a. Seuls petits bémols, la voie est interrompue par des vires qui nuisent un peu à l'ambiance générale, et la faible fréquentation n'a pas suffi à purger la voie, rocher parfois fragile donc, surtout pour L4 et L5.
Au retour, et sous cette journée chaude de fin octobre, baignade dans la calanque de Marseilleveyre avec une Méditerranée encore aux alentours des 20°C...
5 longueurs, équipé, 5c/5c/6a/6a/6a
les gabians profitent du soleil dans la calanque de Marseilleveyre
dans la fissure de L1
sortie du dièdre de L2
le dièdre au début de L3
la dalle de L5, sortie à gauche sous le surplomb sommital
vue vers l'est, le calcaire blanc du bec de Sormiou versus les strates blanches et orangées des falaises soubeyrannes
vue de l'itinéraire
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