Le 24 septembre 2016
3 longueurs, équipé, 6a+ max
6a/5c/6a+
Retour sur cette belle voie située à l’extrémité sud du Bec de Sormiou au-dessus de la grotte du Capelan. On peut d’ailleurs y accéder en traversant cette dernière par une escalade intérieure, peu difficile et bien protégée mais extrêmement glissante, dont l’intérêt réside évidemment plus dans le cadre que dans la gestuelle, avec ce parcours insolite au milieu de rochers rouges ou verts et du trou d’eau turquoise du lac intérieur. Les 3 ou 4 (on peut coupler L3 et L4) longueurs d’escalade de l’envers de la momie reprennent par contre les valeurs sûres des calanques avec leur calcaire blanc bien sculpté et adhérent au-dessus des flots, mention spéciale pour L1 en dévers court mais prononcé et surtout la dernière longueur magnifique en fissure, traversée et dièdre, juste à côté du bitard décollé de la momie qui a donné son nom à la voie.
dans la grotte du Capelan
dans la partie médiane de l'envers de la momie
dans la très belle longueur finale
vue vers les calanques et les soubeyrannes
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