Le 17 juillet 2020
Voie Candella di l'oru, 5 longueurs, partiellement équipé, 5b+ max
5b/4c/5b+/5b+/5b
Première voie de ce séjour en Corse, près de 10 ans après mes derniers voyages sur ce morceau de granite fiché dans la Méditerranée. Après les pozzines (tourbière corse aux allures de parcours de golf naturel) et les couloirs de la Cordillère centrale à pieds et à skis, place aux canyons et aux taffonis (formes d’érosion du granite local, parfois surréalistes !) de la Corse centrale et des aiguilles de Bavella.
On commence donc par cette voie classique réputée pour la beauté de ses taffonis dans les 2 dernières longueurs et la facilité de l’escalade dans du V peu équipé mais très facilement protégeable sur les nombreuses lunules du granite sculpté et creusé comme rarement. Après une approche bucolique sur piste puis sente raide dans la forêt de pins laricios, on profitera effectivement du rocher et de l’escalade exceptionnels de cette chandelle de granite, un régal que de progresser si facilement en mur raide sur un rocher qui ressemble à un fantasme de grimpeur , le tout dans une belle ambiance montagne sous les derniers névés du versant nord du Rotondo.
la chandelle vue durant l'approche
L1
L3
L4
départ de L5
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