Le 20 octobre 2022
Voie « Marinaio di Foresta » sur l’aiguille de Pedra Longa, 7 longueurs, équipé, 6b max
A mon sens 5c/5c/6a(1pas)/5a/6a+/5c+/5c
Suite de la découverte du golfe d’Orosei, après le kayak et avant la spéléologie, parcours de la grande voie la plus classique du coin, « Marinaio di Foresta » sur la belle aiguille décollée de Pedra Longa. Pedra Longuette plutôt ce jour, car sur cet itinéraire à juste titre réputé pour son cadre et son rocher, sans doute parmi les plus faciles et mieux équipés du massif du Supramonte, les cordées se succèdent sans interruption, pas forcément dans le niveau ad hoc, si bien que nous attendrons aujourd’hui près de 2 heures, au départ ou aux relais, avant de pouvoir sortir la voie ! Quoi qu’il en soit, c’est effectivement une très belle ligne qui tourne autour de l’aiguille détachée – un petit air de « sur les traces de Gaston » à l’Eissadon – sur un magnifique calcaire à gouttes d’eau abrasives (pas plus que sur beaucoup de voies des calanques) et au-dessus d’une mer aux couleurs chatoyantes, le tout dans des cotations homogènes dans le 5+, à l’exception de quelques mètres bien coriaces au départ de L5. Un incontournable de la grimpe dans le coin donc, dommage seulement qu’on ne puisse pas contourner les cordées qui bouchonnent !
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dans L1, après plus d'une heure d'attente au départ !
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la traversée de L2 devant la Punta Giradili
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L3, calcaire et eaux magnifiques
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L4
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L6
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L7
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