Le 16 septembre 2017
« le fil du rasoir », 3 longueurs, équipé, 6a max
A mon sens 5c/6a (1 pas)/4c
« rendez-vous sur la lune », 3 longueurs, équipé, 6b max
A mon sens 6b (1 pas)/5c+/6b
Journée d’escalade sur l’envers de la Candelle, au Cap Gros, qu’on devrait appeler plutôt « Caps Minces » vu les promontoires rocheux bordés de falaises que présente le sommet sur son adret ! Après une approche par le col de la Gineste pour changer de Luminy et des treize contours qui en paraissent parfois mille, on commence par « le fil du rasoir », une jolie voie pour ses première et surtout seconde longueurs sur un éperon de dalles, sur du rocher blanc panoramique au-dessus de la calanque de l’œil de verre et face au Cap Canaille. La seconde voie de la journée, « rendez-vous sur la lune », présente un profil très proche, une longueur médiane sur une arête dalleuse plein sud, mais dans un registre technique plus difficile avec notamment un pas bien délicat au départ de L1 et une troisième longueur à la fois soutenue, athlétique et technique. Au final un secteur certes un peu isolé et manquant d’ampleur, mais qui malgré sa position en retrait offre de belles vues dominantes sur du calcaire intensément blanc .
fin de L1 du fil du rasoir
dans le belle L2 du fil du rasoir
vue du relais sommital de L2 du fil du rasoir
dans L1 de "rendez-vous sur la lune"
sur le fil de L2 de "rendez-vous sur la lune"
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