En mai 2019
Voie « le pin rassis »
3 longueurs, équipé, 6c max
A mon sens 5b+/6c/5c+
Retour sur la face ouest du rocher Saint-Michel, un large pan de falaises de moins de cent mètres de haut situé en haut du cirque des Goudes, et à mon sens l’un des meilleurs spots de grimpe after work. Une approche courte, des voies de 3 à 5 longueurs sur un rocher magnifique encore neuf, le tout face aux Lames et à la mer qui s’ouvre à l’ouest font qu’on ne se lasse pas de parcourir les nombreuses voies de ce secteur. Les 2 dernières longueurs de la voie du « pin rassis » offrent une belle escalade variée en fissure, dièdre et dévers, dont une magnifique fissure dans L2 plein gaz, à Dülfer puis à verrous, dans une difficulté soutenue dans le 6b (et même au-delà dans la fissure à doigts – inhabituelle en calcaire - de la fin, sauf pour ceux qui rentrent des cracks de l’Utah !). La dernière longueur permet de soulager les bras sur un rocher moins raide et technique, mais est encore dotée d’un beau final en petit surplomb puis dièdre lisse.
On redescendra une nouvelle fois par les 2 rappels de la grotte de l’ermite, face à la mer et au cirque de falaises rosis par le soleil couchant, et devant les dégaines laissées dans des v(t)oies dont la simple vue fait frémir !
tracé des 3 longueurs de la voie
dans L1
dans L2 et sa fissure à doigts
dans L3
départ des 2 rappels de la grotte de l'ermite
dans le dernier rappel en fil d'araignée, devant le Rocher des Goudes et les Lames
ciste coloré par le crépuscule
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