Le 12 juin 2019
Voie « les quillards», 3 longueurs, équipé, 7a max (6b+ obligé)
A mon sens 6a+/6c/7a(non parcourue de mon côté)
Après être descendu à de nombreuses reprises par le rappel en araignée de la grotte de l’ermite, au-dessus des scellements des 2 dernières longueurs de la voie des quillards, on se décide à parcourir cette voie en mode escalade ascendante ! Comme l’on pouvait s’y attendre, c’est une voie difficile et impressionnante, comportant des pas obligatoires proches du 6c en L2 et aérienne au-dessus de la grotte, mais aussi et surtout esthétique tant par la gestuelle de la grimpe (traversée en L1, dièdre, fissure et dalle en L2) que par le cadre, sur le rocher concrétionné de L1 puis les dalles blanches ciselées en gouttes d’eau à partir de la fin de L2.
L1, l'ambiance grotte de l'ermite à moindres cotes (6a+ !)...
... mais en échange d'un relais sommital de L1 spécialement inconfortable (pas de photos du bas pour cette longueur)
sur la dalle puis le dévers de L3
crépuscule dans le rappel de descente
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