Le 19 septembre 2015
3 longueurs, équipé, 6a+ max
6a+/5c/6a
Retour sur la falaise de l’Oule découverte en 2013, à mon sens l’une des plus belles des calanques avec ses gargouilles de calcaire multicolore dressées au-dessus de la mer, face à la citadelle de Castelvieil. Après « les futurs croulants » on s’attaque aux « croulants » eux-mêmes, une voie de 3 grandes longueurs partiellement équipée au départ commun. Au final une des très belles voies des calanques, atypique avec son escalade en fissure-cheminée raide, où placements et oppositions complètent les prises rondes et chipseuses, et où un petit jeu de friends (dont des gros) permet de se protéger convenablement avec les lunules parfois fatiguées déjà en place. L’escalade reste soutenue et plaisante sur ces 100 et quelques mètres bien raides, parfois intérieure en ramonage dans les cheminées, parfois extérieure plein gaz sur les boules de calcaire, mais toujours avec la mer en ligne de mire lorsqu’on les cherche des bouffigues où poser ses chaussons !
les rappels d'accès
vue vers la falaise de l'Oule et le très beau rocher alvéolé de la voie du Linceul
dans L1
au relais sommital de L1
dans la longue cheminée de L2
dans L3, en dévers puis dièdre
2 générations de coinceurs, du bois au métal…
détail d'une mante religieuse près de la Fontasse
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