Le 4 octobre 2015
Voie Antifada, équipé, 5 longueurs, 6b max
6b/6b/6b/5c/6b
Voie NTD (3 dernières longueurs),équipé, 6b max
6a/6a+/6b+
Journée d’escalade au bec de Sormiou, d’abord à l’ombre de «Antifada » puis au soleil pour les 3 longueurs finales de « Nique Ton Dièdre ». Les 5 longueurs de Antifada louvoient souvent en traversée sur un très beau calcaire blanc et compact, dans des cotations constamment entre le 6a et le 6b, mais avec des difficultés plutôt hétérogènes, quelques pas blocs de 6b venant en fait couper de longues sections en 5+/6a. Quoi qu’il en soit l’escalade reste intéressante et variée entre dièdre, dalle, traversées et petits dévers. La fin de « NTD » se déroule quant à elle sur un calcaire ciselé très abrasif, avec là encore des cotations dans le 6a/b, et souvent en traversée au-dessus du dièdre Guem, nique ton dièdre mais pas la grimpe ici encore intéressante quoique douloureuse pour la pulpe des doigts…
à l'attaque de la voie Antifada
Antifada, dans L3 en traversée
dans la dalle de L4
sur les crêtes de Sormiou, entre la sortie de "Antifada" et la brèche d'accès au secteur du dièdre Guem
dans L5 de "NTD"
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