Le 13 août 2017
« la barule des barulots », 11 longueurs, équipé, 6a max
Cotations « officielles » : 5a/4/5a/5c/5c/6a/6a/6a/5c/5b/5b
Cotations ressenties : 5a/4/5b/5a/5a/5b/5b/5b/5c/5a/5a (!)
Après le retour de Madère l’avant-veille, début d’une semaine dans les Préalpes du Sud, dans le Gapençais, le Dévoluy puis le Vercors.
La voie « la barule des barulots » déroule ses 11 longueurs majoritairement sur une dalle couchée suspendue au-dessus des alpages du col Bayard, en position ouverte et panoramique face aux doux sommets du Champsaur. On grimpe donc sur un miroir de calcaire impressionnant par sa taille (sur près de 200 mètres de dénivelée) et sa perfection, pas une aspérité, hormis les cannelures sommitales, pour détonner sur sa platitude. Toutefois la dalle est bien couchée et la grimpe en adhérence pure, quoique souvent en mode quadrupède, facile ; on reste à mon sens bien loin des cotations annoncées en 5c/6a, plutôt dans le petit 5, même si l’équipement reste un peu parcimonieux, rien d’inquiétant dans ce niveau de difficultés. Au final un itinéraire intéressant malgré tout, qui vaut surtout pour son caractère insolite et sa belle géologie de dalle parfaite bordée de stratifications calcaires.
à l'approche, sous la belle dalle couchée de la voie
dans les premières longueurs en dalle
la dalle se redresse un petit peu
au sommet de la dalle...
... avant les belles cannelures finales
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