Le 15 mai 2020
Combinaison le souci en L1/ les anges se grattent le derrière en L2 / mélodies graphiques en L3
3 longueurs, équipé, 5c max
4c/5b+/5b+ à mon sens 5a/5c+/5b+
Tentative dans le bouffon de droite 5c+
Retour sur les grandes dalles du pied de la montagne Sainte-Victoire au secteur des 2 aiguilles, cette fois dans les lignes situées près de l’aiguille Bertine. On évoluera encore sur le calcaire gris incomparable des lieux, rarement compact mais prisu et adhérent, dans une combinaison de plusieurs voies conçue pour grimper dans le V, un peu plus exigeant et engagé ici qu’ailleurs vu l’espacement des spits de 10 un peu rouillés ! Au final, pas de souci dans cette première longueur de la voie du souci prolongée par « les anges se grattent le derrière », une vingtaine de mètres un peu délicats au départ en dévers puis « mélodies graphiques » sur une dalle aussi belle qu’en première longueur. C’est finalement la voie du bouffon de droite qui posera le plus de souci avec son pas – obligatoire – de rétablissement au-dessus du point sur des crougnes !
approche
dans L1 du souci, facile et belle
sortie de L2 "les anges se grattent le derrière"
L3 mélodies graphiques, encore de la belle dalle (suspendue)
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