Le 28 octobre 2023
Voie "papy fait de la résistance", 8 longueurs, équipé, 7b max
5b/6a (1 pas)/4b/6a+ (1 pas)/7b/7a/6a/4a
Parcours d’une voie récente de Cap Canaille au secteur sémaphore, et dont le départ se situe juste au sud de celui de « attraction désastre ». C’est une belle ligne bien équipée, inhabituellement facile sous la vire Philémon (juste un pas de 6a) mais dans une géologie détritique comme toujours exceptionnellement colorée et sculptée : calcaire et grès dans un mélange improbable de tablettes, cheminées presque fermées, gargouilles, bouffigues, le tout creusé de niches et d’alvéoles. L’escalade devient plus technique au-dessus de la vire supérieure, et la géologie encore plus délirante avec notamment une coulée de calcite découpée en grands cristaux triangulaires plaquée sur le calcaire blanc, au-dessus d’un énorme toit de conglomérat marron et entre les zébrures d’inclusions de grès ocre.
Si l’on ne terminera pas la voie ce jour, vu un départ tardif et une cinquième longueur en artif probablement laborieuse pour des grimpeurs qui ne sont pas dans le 7, on reviendra bientôt sur ce très bel itinéraire au caillou particulièrement fantasmatique.
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L1 en dièdre puis cheminée spéléo canaillesque
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L2
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L3 sous la vire à Philémon
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L4 et son rocher magnifique - coulée de cristaux de calcite sur calcaire blanc
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L5 et son impressionnant toit à parcourir en artif - la photo est bien à l'horizontale et vu le crépuscule qui approche, demi-tour
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réchappe par la vire à Philémon vers le sud
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