Le 25 août 2016
Voie "nulle part ailleurs" sur la première tour du Queyrellin, 5 longueurs, équipé, 6b+ max
5c+/6b+/6a/6a/5c
Première ascension d’une nouvelle virée en montagne, et retour dans la belle vallée de Névache parcourue en VTT 3 semaines plus tôt. Après un départ peu matinal de Marseille le matin-même, on s’oriente vers une grande voie au-dessus du refuge du Chardonnet : « nulle part ailleurs » seulement 5 longueurs et un accès pédestre rapide en à peu près 1 heure et demi. Cette première aiguille du Queyrellin offre une belle escalade variée relativement soutenue dans le 5c/6a (à l’exception d’un pas dur et inesthétique au départ de L2, qui passe bien en A0), doté de passages magnifiques comme la dalle jaune et grise de L3 ou le fil du pilier de L4, sur le calcaire compact et bien sculpté typique des Cerces, et dans un cadre non moins esthétique fait de tourbières aux allures de pozzines et d’aiguilles calcaires aux allures de spigolos dolomitiques. Voie à recommander donc à tous points de vue et de chaussons, de même que le refuge du Chardonnet pour les randonneurs, idyllique avec sa terrasse panoramique entourée d’ânes face aux tours de calcaire…
linaigrettes devant l'éperon du jour
dans L1, sur le beau calcaire des Cerces et ses edelweiss
dans L2
dans la très belle L3
sur l'éperon de L4
dans la dernière longueur, sur la tour décollée
au pied de la voie
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