En mars 2018
Toit de garrigou de droite
3 longueurs, équipé, 5b max
5b/5b/5b
Que ma joie demeure, 3 longueurs, équipé, 6b max
6a+/6b/3b
Après-midi de grimpe au-dessus des Goudes, face sud du rocher Saint-Michel à l’abri du mistral… mais aussi du soleil dès le milieu d’après-midi. On s’échauffera d’abord dans la voie historique du « toit de garrigou de droite », qui vaut surtout par sa très belle seconde longueur en traversée ascendante sur rocher à gouttes d’eau sous un gros toit, une jolie ambiance pour une escalade qui ne dépasse pas le 5b. L’ampleur modérée de la voie, la beauté du cadre face aux îles, la qualité de l’équipement et le confort des relais en font d’ailleurs une voie toute indiquée pour de l’initiation dans un niveau maximum 5b ! On se dirigera ensuite vers la voie « que ma joie demeure », située juste à l’est de « la rectiligne » près du pas de la Demi-Lune. On profitera alors d’une belle escalade soutenue dans le 6a/b, particulièrement dans une seconde longueur majeure : 40 mètres de grimpe très soutenue et variée majoritairement en dalle, mais aussi en petit dévers, fissure ou dièdre, avec un équipement aéré sauf dans les pas les plus durs, qui à mon sens n’excèdent pas le 6a+.
dans la belle L2 du toit de garrigou de droite
asphodèle devant le Riou
dans la très belle L2 de "que ma joie demeure"
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