grande traversée de l'Escu
5 longueurs, équipé, 6c max
rappel/marche/6c/6b/5c/6b/5a
Séance d’escalade à l’Escu, ou plutôt au-dessus de la calanque de l’Escu devrais-je dire, puisque la grande traversée de l’Escu déroule ses longueurs au-dessus de la baume caractéristique de la calanque de l’Escu. Grosse ambiance donc dans cette voie d’escalade atypique (moins pour les calanques) qui suit une vire presque horizontale perchée une trentaine de mètres en surplomb au-dessus de la mer puis de la calanque, plus ou moins large, sur un rocher chipseux et fragile. On grimpe les fesses dans le vide et les bras contractés sur des aplats chipseux, des tablettes à la solidité aléatoire… ou donc des scellements heureusement rapprochés, la combinaison de la difficulté intrinsèque de la voie, du dévers et du gaz assez prenants malgré la faible hauteur et du rocher sale n’incitant guère à grimper… proprement ! Quoi qu’il en soit, et même donc si la grimpe s’est avérée artificielle dans les passages les plus durs (surtout L1 en 6c), ce parcours offre une ambiance réellement exceptionnelle, une vire à ramping ou plein gaz façon traversée sans retour infiniment plus longue ! A réserver par contre pour ceux qui veulent enchaîner aux gros bras et au grosses c… euh au gros mental !
dans l'approche
au départ la vire est large et facile...
... puis elle se réduit nettement dans L1 en 6c !
dans L2, ramping dans le pas difficile
dans L3
crépuscule sur l'île Plane et la péninsule de Sormiou
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