Le 10 août 2019
Voie "la fiesta del sud", 9 longueurs, équipé, 6b max
5c/5c/6a/6a+/3c/6a/6b/6a+/6a+
Première grande voie d’un week-end d’escalade dans le massif des Ecrins, sur ces sommets aux allures dolomitiques des Tenailles de Montbrison découverts et gravis à 2 reprises en 2014. Dur de se lasser de ces grandes parois de calcaire compact en belvédère face aux sommets du Briançonnais… et du bivouac désormais habituel sur la piste d’accès, panoramique dans la verdure et près du bruissement d’un ru ! La voie de la « fiesta del sud » ne déroge pas à la règle et offre 9 longueurs d’une belle escalade homogène dans le 5c/6a, avec quelques pas dans le 6a+/b dans la belle fissure de L7 ou le mur final de L9, sur un beau calcaire gris très adhérent malgré une légère patine qui commence à s’installer. La grimpe reste variée tout du long, dièdre, traversée, dalle, fissure… et l’équipement Cambon permet de grimper en toute décontraction nerveuse (mais pas musculaire), hormis peut-être dans la fissure de L7 aux points un peu plus éloignés. Le retour par le sentier et ses myrtilles à point permettront de reposer (et de tâcher) un peu les doigts avant la grande voie du lendemain !
au bivouac panoramique
dans l'approche, en bas de la Combe Brune
dans la traversée de L2
dans L3
dans L4
dans L6, les cordées voisines dans "vol et volupté", sur l'arête et devant le gendarme de la première aiguille
dans L7
dans L8
dans les rappels de descente, vue plongeante sur le sentier dans l'éboulis
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