Le 2 août 2019
Pilier nord-ouest du Petit Cayre de la Madone, 6 longueurs, partiellement équipé (prendre petit jeu de friens et sangles), 6a max
A mon sens 5b/6a/5a/6a/6a/5a
Après les arêtes du Saint-Robert la veille, et un nouveau bivouac vers le Gias Cabret, retour sur le beau gneiss des lieux sur le pilier nord-ouest du Petit Caïre de la Madone. C’est une voie de 6 longueurs partiellement équipée et qui nécessite donc des sangles et un petit jeu de friends, et à mon sens plus délicate que les cotations ne le laisseraient supposer. La fissure officiellement cotée 5b de L2 (plutôt 6a/6a+ dans mon ressenti de grimpeur peu entraîné) puis le dièdre de L4, et dans une moindre mesure de L5, comportent des pas délicats et/ou athlétiques à protéger sur friends. En tout cas le rocher reste beau et bon du bas en haut, avec une mention spéciale pour le lichen doré qui le recouvre au départ de L5, et qui donne l’impression de grimper entre des filons d’or !
à l'approche, devant l'objectif du jour
dans L2, soutenue en fissure à protéger...
sortie du dièdre de L4
sur le gneiss doré de lichen de L5
dans L6
au départ du rappel de descente de 50 m
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