Le 18 juin 2022
Voie "les leaders", équipé, 4 longueurs, 6b max (+ 2 longeurs d'approche sous la vire de départ, ce jour par la grotte du Capelan)
A mon sens 6b/6a+/6a/5c+ (soutenu)
Retour sur la face nord-est du Bec de Sormiou, une valeur sûre de la grimpe estivale à l’ombre dès la fin de matinée, et pile au-dessus de la mer qui garantit souvent un peu de fraîcheur. Le matériel de plongée apnée est cette fois de sortie, l’occasion de découvrir une jolie grotte marine juste à l’ouest du Cap Redon et de revisiter les parois bariolées des tombants ombragés.
Après une traversée en escalade et tire-clous d’une grotte du Capelan particulièrement poisseuse avec ce vent de sud, on ira grimper les quatre longueurs des « leaders », un itinéraire varié et soutenu dans le 6a, voire (beaucoup) plus dans une première longueur raide, athlétique et technique, avec partout et toujours ce calcaire particulièrement blanc caractéristique de Sormiou. L’ombre et le petit vent de sud garantiront une température idéale pour l’escalade en ce jour pourtant de canicule historique sur les trois quarts de la France !
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dans la jolie grotte marine proche du Cap Redon avec son plancher sous-marin percé de nombreuses ouvertures circulaires, ludique pour les apnéistes
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la décoration des tombants à l'ombre, éponges, anémones encroûtantes...
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quelques dizaines de mètres plus haut, dans la grotte du Capelan (particulièrement poisseuse ce jour)
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L2, son dièdre inaugural puis sa traversée à bras
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L3 en traversée dalleuse
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départ de L4
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