Le 5 avril 2025
Voie "l'envers de la momie" au Bec de Sormiou, 4 longueurs, équipé, 6a + max
A mon sens 6a+ (athlétique)/5b+/5b/6a+ (1 pas)
Retour sur cette courte mais belle voie, située le long du monolithe de la Momie accolé au Bec de Sormiou, et qui offre un itinéraire aussi intéressant pour son cadre géologique donc que pour son escalade, variée en dévers, dalle, traversée et fissure (entre autres !). La première longueur vaut par son parcours surplombant inhabituel pour cette cotation dans les calanques (plus courant à Cap Canaille…) qui se termine dans une petite grotte suspendue façon « 2 vauriens 3 canailles », la seconde pour son début aérien en sortie de niche puis son mur en calcaire blanc ciselé pile au-dessus de la Grotte du Capelan, et la dernière – la plus belle – pour sa traversée aérienne à placements faisant suite au rocher particulièrement sculpté du départ.
Et cerise ou plutôt asperge sur le gâteau pour agrémenter l’approche, le début de printemps météorologique particulièrement pluvieux a fait pousser partout fleurs et asparagaceae, du plaisir autant pour les rétines que pour les papilles !
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dans les 3 longueurs d'approche vers le Capelan
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L1 en dévers et son magnifique relais dans une petite grotte
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L2, non moins belle sur calcaire blanc ciselé au-dessus de la Grotte du Capelan
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la magnifique L4 en fissure, traversée puis dièdre, devant la Momie
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sur l'arête du Bec
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la garrigue en fleurs sur le retour, cistes blancs et mauves, asperges croquantes, iris...
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